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Classic Ford - Buyers Guide: Fiesta Buying
"Bag a Bargain!"
July 2006
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Buyers Guide: Fiesta Buying




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ENGINE

On all engines, have a good poke around looking for oil leaks, especially around the block and sump. Start the engine up, listening for rattles and clonks and also look for smoke from the exhaust. Blue smoke and there's oil getting into the chambers (head gasket, piston rings or stem valve seals); white and it could be water (head gasket). If it clears then it might only be a slight problem, but if the smoke persists then it'll be more serious.

The smaller units (957 and 1117cc) are the most susceptible to wear in the Mkl. Piston, bore and ring wear can occur within 50K miles so make sure services have been carried out (at least oil changes and listen for a rough tickover at idle. Also listen for rattles, which could signify worn cam followers, meaning the shaft would also have to be replaced.

The bigger 1600 XR2 unit can suffer from head gasket failure, so check for oil in the water and white emulsion in the oil. Again, listen for cam rattle on start-up.

TRANSMISSION

On the test drive, listen for noisy bearings from the gearbox and check for sloppy gearchanges, which indicates worn linkages. This isn't too difficult to fix but it's another job to do so make sure you check it out.

BODY

Like most classic Fords, rust is your major worry. Our advice would be to look everywhere. Leave no carpet unlifted, panel unpoked or arch untouched. If you can get the car up on a ramp before you buy, all the better, but more than the mechanicals (they can be replaced and repaired more easily) make sure you spend a good amount of time checking and rechecking the bodywork. There are certain areas to give a very close inspection, though:
Inner wings
Door hinges
Battery tray
Front suspension turrets
Fuel filler cap surround
Rear arches - inner and edge (especially so on the XR2 under the bodykit extensions)
Sills - inner sills are an MoT failure due to their closeness to the seatbelt mounting points
Floorpan
Coil spring seats - another MoT failure area

CHASSIS

Test the brakes on the test drive and listen for clonking from the suspension and bearings when on full lock - find a quiet car park and putfull lock on and drive around in a circle, both ways. Make sure you get on the floor and check suspension legs for leaking dampers and aroken springs, but again don't fret as these parts can be uprated and replaced easily enough.

Check the rear radius arms for play as well. Worn bearings are another MoT :ailure. And while you're down there look at the front driveshaft gaiters. If they're split either end then they could have been letting muck and water get into places it shouldn't be and causing unknown damage, so be warned!

INTERIOR

Unless you're after real originality our advice is to not worry too much about the interior on the lesser models. The Supersport and XR2 seats are harder to come by but not so much so that you shouldn't buy a decent example if they're a bit shabby.

You should always check that all the electrics work as wiring on car of this age is always going to have a few glitches and making your way through a loom with a test box is never a happy way to spend a weekend.

Fiesta Special Editions:

The rare Mkl Fiestas to look out for -

Limited Edition - 2000 produced in August 1978
Kingfisher - 2500 produced in December 1978
Million - 3100 produced in March 1979
Sandpiper - 2500 produced in December 1979
Jubilee - 60 produced (by a main dealer) in January 1979
Fire Fly - 2000 produced in July 1980
Sandpiper 11 - 4000 produced in March 1981
Bravo - 3000 produced in June 1981
1300L - 2000 produced in June 1981
Bravo 11 - 4000 produced in April 1982
Carnival - 3000 produced in 19 December 1982
Quartz - 7000 produced in January 1983
Finesse - 12,000 produced in April 1983

Captions -

Middle-Right - Although the XR2 and Supersport command high prices, the lesser models can be bought for a song.